Day 6 - Tour of Edfu, Esna Lock and on to Luxor

We are off to Edfu early in the morning. Our method of transportation today is by horse drawn carriage. Mahmoud warns us that the drivers will want extra money even though they are well paid for their services. Our driver was no exception. Nice try but we stick to our guidelines. There were horses and carriages everywhere and I thought the smell would knock me over (nice aroma after breakfast). The animals seemed well cared for despite what I heard about before our trip. Several web sites claimed the horses were in poor condition and malnourished. I saw no signs of ill treatment.

Edfu, temple of Horus, the falcon-god built by Ptolemy III in 237 BC and finished 200 years later by Ptolemy XIII (father of Cleopatra). Edfu temple is one of the best preserved temples in Egypt. It is devoted to the ancient falcon-god, Horus. The inner walls of the enclosure depict the story of how Horus was conceived from parts of his father, Osiris, god of the underworld. Seth chopped Osiris up into little pieces and cast his parts into the Nile. Isis used her magic to restore Osiris to life only to have Seth do the same again. The second time Isis was unable to restore Osiris, so she used the parts to conceive Horus. Horus later slays Seth (now in the form of a miniature hippo) but looses an eye in the battle. The eye of Horus is an important religious symbol in ancient Egyptian theology.

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1., 4., 5. Pylons entering temple of Horus, 2. View from forecourt to Inner Hall of Consecrations, 3. Joe and Freda in front of outer pylon, 6. Barge of Isis (horned-headed figure), 7. Horus statue out side of Inner Hall of Consecrations, 8. Sanctuary of Horus, 9. Column with relief carving of Isis.

On to Esna lock on the Nile River.
After our visit to Edfu we reboarded our cruise ship to head for Luxor. But we needed to go through the Nile lock at Esna. We were about the 4th boat in line to pass through. At the rate of exchange the entire passage took about 2-3 hours to complete. First boats from the northern side would pass then boats from the southern side. Only 2 cruisers at a time. While we were waiting a couple of small boats came along side. They were vendors of the Nile. They were selling table cloths. Some were very beautifully made. Machine made, but pretty. They would call to the passengers on the top deck, 4 decks up, and throw a table cloth in a plastic bag to the top deck. If you were interested, you'd open the package and make a bid. Margie and I looked at one but the price was too high. LE120! (~$45). We decided that it was to high. When I tried to toss it back, the vendor started yelling, "No, No, No! Give me a price!" I tried to explain that I really wasn't interested, but he refused to take no for an answer. Just as I was beginning to toss it down again, Candie asked to see it. The lowest she was able to get was LE70 for the first one and LE60 for the second one. By this time a crowd was gathering around to see what was going on. Both on the deck and in the water. More boats had shown up to similarly toss up their wares. Candie was doing all the barganing for the entire group. By this time the price had bottomed out at LE40. (~$14). But the good stuff was already sold and only smaller cloths and cheaper goods were left. As we began to move foreward again the boats hitched a ride to keep up. At the lock the vendors climbed the concrete structure and walked along as the boat started to enter. A few minutes later a guard showed up and kicked off the remaining sales boats. I love this country. Everyone will sell you most anything, anywhere.

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1. Hitching a ride, 2. Esna lock, south lock, 3. Right's of sale arguement, 4. Selling on the lock works.

The photos are evening scenes while cruising to Luxor. Luxor would still be a few hours away.

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1. & 2. Eastern mountains on way to Luxor, 3. Women and children doing wash on the Nile shore, 4. Houses on eastern shore, 5. Felucca boat.

Day 1 - Arrival in Cairo
Day 2 - Tour of the Citadel, Egyptian Museum, Coptic Cairo, and the Bazaar
Day 3 - Visit to Giza Plateau to view the Pyramids, and Sphinx. To Memphis and Saqqara
Day 4 - Flight to Abu Simbel, Aswan city, Felucca ride around Kitchner's Island
Day 5 - Tour of Aswan, Cruise down Nile to Kom Ombo and Edfu
Day 6 - Tour of Edfu, Esna Lock and on to Luxor
Day 7 - Tour Valley of the Kings, Temple of Queen Hatshepsut, Colossi of Memnon

Day 8 - Tour Luxor, Karnak Temple and Luxor Temple

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